Inflate tires to proper pressures. Load car with lb in each front seat seat in center position , lb in center of back seat, 50lb in center of trunk. Move car to settle suspension. Park car on level ground. Note: This is quite important to achieving a proper reading. Remove front wheels center caps. Measure distance between wheel hub center cup bottom lip and fender rim directly above.
Verify second front wheel has exact reading. If not, then car may not be on level ground. This measurement technique can be replicated when the wheel is off the car, which is the practical setup when performing the repair.
Raise front of car and place on jack stands follow appropriate procedure; chock both sides of both rear wheels. Remove front wheels.
Remove large engine compartment shield underneath front of car. The following procedure shows the left side driver side. The right side is the same but with minor noted differences.
No need to remove liners in the next several steps. Go directly to disconnecting thrust arm bushing joint. Note: right and left bushing joint covers are unique. Right side: Unclip temperature sensor on bottom of wheel well splash guard and push into access hole. Take note of mounting position for end reinstallation. Unfasten splash guard and air duct connection. Remove splash guard. Note: splash guard bottom sits inside bumper, and top fits behind upper splash guard.
Remove brake air duct, taking note of mounting position for end reinstallation. Left side: Brake air duct screw inside the bumper is difficult to access. Unclip and remove fog light rear cover. Only a direct socket extension access is feasible. Break thrust arm bushing nut seize 18mm combo wrench 8-cyl 21mm.
Note: No space for socket tool. Remove bolt by adjusting thrust arm forward to allow bolt to slip out. Allow thrust arm to drop and wrest on tie rod arm. Bolt will scarcely clear center link at tie rod ball joint.
A center link bend at that location provides the needed clearance. The steering will need to be moved slightly while bolt is being removed. Steering is moved from under car by pushing on steering system. This is a good opportunity to check the thrust arm ball joint. Rotate the arm socket on the bolt ball. Movement should be stiff. There should be no play space.
Check rubber boot for tears and grease leakage. Any ball joint play or torn boot and the thrust arm needs to be replaced. Replace both thrust arm bushings. Tightly strap thrust arm to tie rod to keep it from moving cross tie with rope; tie to arm, then utilize 2 half-hitch knots on each cross, strongly tightening each half-hitch.
Note: A very tight strapping is necessary to minimizes thrust arm movements during press process. Note: Cleaning bore exterior will also facilitate detection of next bushing tear spill mark.
Note: When utilizing brake cleaner at car, spray cleaner on towel and then clean with towel. This method safeguards from inadvertently spraying brake cleaner on car rubber parts which can detrimentally affect them.
Orient puller so main body is on bore insertion side car inboard side , and jaw teeth are on the bore extraction side car outboard side. Insert puller bolt into bushing center shaft. Hold jaw arms around bore with one hand while tightening puller bolt with other.
Bolt thread is wider than bushing shaft and will stop bolt, thus creating needed back pressure on yoke. Adjust jaw teeth to be completely inserted and perpendicular to bore.
Jar jaw ends to adjust teeth ratchet handle butt. Adjust puller jaws and teeth as before, but with more precision. Strongly tighten puller bolt. Puller jaws will loosen, but puller will continue to be suspended from thrust arm.
Place some grease on press cap center area. Insert press cap into puller bolt path. Push press cap against bolt, inserting puller bolt tip into press cap dimple. Tighten puller bolt until press cap mates with bushing sleeve. Center press cap on bushing sleeve.
Note: Lubricants and grease on bushing sleeve provide no benefit to press process. Insert press sleeve between press cap and bushing. Push press sleeve against press cap, and press cap against puller bolt. Tighten puller bolt until press sleeve mates with bushing sleeve. Center press cap on press sleeve, and press sleeve on bushing sleeve. Finely adjust press sleeve by taping it ratchet handle butt.
Press sleeve will be precisely positioned when bushing sleeve can be seen from around whole outside perimeter of press sleeve.
Note: Thrust arm bore is notched at rim to facilitate small deviation adjustments of press sleeve during initial insertion.
A crack or two might be heard initially, indicating adjustment of press sleeve by bore rim notch. Continue tightening until bushing slips out of bore will feel lessening of pressure.
This facilitates remounting puller with new bushing while old bushing is present to keep puller jaw teeth from protruding into arm bore opening. Loosen puller bolt and remove press cap. Remove puller by allowing yoke to drop down towards floor and then slipping out jaw teeth from bore. Take care not to alter jaw positions. Remove press sleeve from the bore.
Note: Picture shows press sleeve inside arm bore. Includes Powerflex bushings and new hardware. Stiffer bushings allow sway bars to work at their fullest potential.
For 27mm front sway bar. Set of rear mount rear subframe bushings to help improve handling For sedan models only. Set of front mount rear subframe bushings to help improve handling For sedan models only. Found in the tension strut Upgraded heavy duty version from the E53 X5, found in the rear position control arm. ECS Tuning is not affiliated with any automobile manufacturers. Recover Lost Password. Password must be at least 8 characters. Password must contain a lowercase letter, an uppercase letter, a digit and a special character!
We would recommend that the alignment be checked. The actual replacement of the control arm would not change the alignment angles, but what caused the need to change the control arm impact with curb or pothole? Alignment angles should be checked on a regular bases to insure tire tread life and maximum fuel economy.
However, control arm bushings need to be pressed in with a special tool or press, which takes some time and adds the labor cost. Is a control arm easy to replace at home?
On the difficulty scale from 1 to 10, replacing a control arm is 7 or 8. In the shop, it takes about The vehicle sounds as though it is clunking when you make sharp turns or hit the brakes. Near the end of the summer, I wrote about giving my daily-driver E39 i stick sport some long-delayed The big sweep of my automotive storage situation has been: — Occupying both bays in the two-car garage of My tii is rusting.
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